fixie touring

i'm heading south on a fixed gear bicycle to learn what i can learn

what i learned on the road and how to not assign meaning to things and an otherwise horridly nonsensical post about post-trip musings and how difficult it is to learn anything much less learn about what one learned

i'm home again. i think about how hard it is to assign meaning to things. when i was on the road i didn't need meaning. i took one pedal stroke at a time. i slept when i was tired. i ate when i was hungry. i made decisions, one at a time, about how to budget my cash. my cel phone was my connector to The World i Knew and i hated it for that.

every day was a fresh start. if the day before had been bad, this day would be better, i knew. and it was. i think it was frank sinatra who said he pitied people who didn't drink, because how they felt when they woke up would be the best they felt all day. for me, how i felt when i went to sleep was the best i had felt all day.

i focused on one thing, seeing. i saw people. dogs. churches. cities. skyscrapers. leaves. fireants. flames. exhaust. most of all i saw myself.

it's hard to not see yourself when you engage in successive 12 hour monologues. i tried to think. then i gave up and just talked. it was better that way.

i of course regret i'm not still on the road. this unsustainable lifestyle of frantic multi-tasking and technological connectedness was...is not healthy. not for me, not for you. but neither is one of disconnectedness and loneliness and running away from everything that's real. this trip was not that for me. i thought it might be so i made sure i had to depend on people to get through. and i did. i ate other's food and water, i camped in their backyards, i used their phones, i accepted their money.

in statesboro i met a german lady teaching german to homeless people. i got to practice my (lousy) german and meet some of the nicest people i had the pleasure of knowing in the south. i'm hesitant to talk about people in the south for the most part, because i know the bad experiences i had with a lot of people are atypical of others. still, i love me some stories, and you know people on the street got the word. i could have listened for hours.

hanging out with matt and ashley in savannah was an epic time. we could have swapped travel stories all night fueled by pizza and chocolate and ghost stories. for me it was a time of reconnecting with civilization after 3 weeks of wilding. so i took a shower, brushed my teeth, slept in a bed. it felt ok. we hit the cemetery, the beach, the bike shop.

i got a box and put my bike in it. i said goodbye to savannah and the south. then i took greyhound north. it stopped in richmond. i got another bus. it stopped at DC. when i saw pittsburgh i just started smiling from ear to ear. i knew this place, i knew where stuff was and i knew who i was.

and that, my friend, is the only important thing. all our life we travel. we stay true to ourself and to the ancient order of things and to the human community and we will be OK.

so what did i learn? i learned couches are better than beds. i learned small towns in the south are really just three houses and i learned water out of convenience store bathrooms tastes better than $3 bottled h2o. i learned the german word for asshole. i learned asians look out for asians and that it's totally worth it to buy the sunday newspaper just for food coupons. i learned that burger king dumpsters are the worst in the world, beating mcdonalds, wal mart, and 7 eleven. i learned a broken seat stay is not the end of the world, and laundromats are dangerous places. i learned how to beat mosquitos at their own game but to always have a healthy respect for sand gnats. i learned to be quiet when the sun sets. i learned people are nicer on sundays. i learned schwalbe tires are totally worth their weight in gold. i learned never to trust squirrels, even baby ones that look like they have no interest in all in your reese's cups. i learned to sleep well and dream better.

basically, i learned how to go crazy and come back. and it was one hell of a time.

 

i'm in savannah

The most beautiful city in the south.

Random things

i hate south carolina as i suspected i might. The roads are terrible and the motorists worse. Of course even North Carolina's ubiquitous "share the road" with bicyclists signs seem to be ignored.

i love camping in pine woods. there are less bugs and thorns. I camped in pines 4 of the past 5 nights.

next week seems as good a time as any to grab a bus to come back north. I've had the time of my life almost every day this trip meeting new people and finding new things (not to mention eating food) but all good things must end so we can see just how good they were.

i'm sad its almost over but excited to go home again.

i am sleeping in tomorrow while the rest of south carolina goes to church (except the 7th day adventists). I am happy that nature valley has combined dark chocolate with their crispy granola bars. What could go wrong by combining two of my favorite things?

a guy today gave me a switchblade knife because he thought i might need it. What i need is air conditioning.

OBX is a windy place

i like storks. they are fragile, almost like a gust of wind or drop of water could make them wither up.

i am in love with sand dunes and wind and sea smells and feral horses. i rode two ferries. one was 40 minutes and one i am still on. it is supposed to dock at cedar island in two hours.

a man with a metallica shirt just said, "look at the lighthouse." there are a lot of those here.

when i get back to mainland i think it will feel like flying not to push against coastal winds. there are no trees on these islands, only shrubs. i had to sleep on the ground last night and i was viciously attacked by mosquitos and another small winged demon that is more quiet and more painful than mosquitos.

it was my worst night. i wanted a hotel room but didn't want to pay $200 for an oceanfront view.

i beach-hopped today and yesterday. i am still riding parallel to the sea.

OBX is expensive. yesterday i spent $12.63 in one day on food. it is the most i have spent on food so far. i feel like i really hate some parts of this place but i have grown fond of the wildness everywhere. it is better since everyone left yesterday.

i am eating life cereal and dark chocolate. it is a good combination.

Always the hat

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I was at a gas station.

"How much do you want for that hat" said the man with a cantaloupe stomach.

'That hat' is the hat i have worn every day for the past 11 days.

"It's not for sale," i said.

"But i thought everything had a price," he said.

"Okay," i said, "try me".

"$20," he said.

"No," i said.

"Sh*t. I always thought i could buy anything. I guess I was wrong," he said.

i thought of that seinfeld where kramer sells the blue suit off his back and then was trapped in a dressing room and i thought of many other poor men without clothes in dressing rooms all over virginia that sold this man their wardrobe, and i smiled, just a little.

i am sleeping in North Carolina tonight.

Day 10

it is hot in richmond.

we went slow for a few days and saw amazing virginia farms and other nothingness but by monday i want to see outerbanks, nc and i think you all will be jealous. 

i am learning how to eat less i think. 

amtrak is taking dean away tonight so i dont get to eat his granola bars any more. he was a very patient and gracious travel companion.

a random guy with a small beard said yesterday, "f*cking A, guys" and gave us water from his back seat when we didnt ask for it but needed it. sometimes the universe just aligns.

focus is coming slowly but i dont worry about time and hygiene and skin care as much. and i dream a lot at night. a lot. 

i also might love dollar general.

Fredericksburg, VA has a good coffee shop in case anyone wanted to know

i met Dean in DC.

DC has a lot of runners and bikers i think. it also has trails and parks and a river and one laundromat where my phone disappeared. i won't update this blog until i get a new phone, in Richmond i think.

We are in Fredericksburg now. It is a very nice town. i just drank a $5 Double Frozen chocolate mocha. It was cold.

Day 5

I feel like after 5 days in I should have something smart to say. Uhoh

I am almost at DC. Tomorrow I will eat Joyce's food then go through more puddles until I see the Washington Monument.

I discovered I really like Beer Nuts

Day 4 (Sunday)

I hit a beaver.

You would not be laughing if you saw me right now. I have a gash on my left thigh, little holes in my palms with gravel inside, and no glasses. Yes he took my glasses and any pride I had left.

I biked with Sonny most of the day. He is a nice boy who goes to RMU and is sleeping in Cumberland tonight.

I am sleeping in Devil's Alley.

Puddles are my least favorite thing now. Before, it was effeminate clowns.

I may not get to DC until Tuesday morning now because I lay in my hammock waiting for the rain to stop all day on Saturday and part of today. I do not like rain any more either. I feel like I'm hating a lot but I do feel fonder of off-brand cereal than before. I think.

Where I lay for the past 36 hours

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